Opening an Italian restaurant in Fremantle is hardly groundbreaking. But recent addition to the historic West End precinct, Vin Populi (pronounced pop-you-lee), is slicker than your average Freo fare.
Vin Populi has pedigree. Emma Ferguson and her partner Dan Morris know a thing or two about Italian food in Perth. Their Northbridge staple No Mafia is entering its ninth year, and perennial CBD favourite Balthazar has been under their stewardship since 2016. Vin Pop’s Italian credentials are fortified by head chef Leo Crescenzi, who hails from Lazio, and Tuscan bar manager Silvia Sciarri.
At Vin Populi, Ferguson and Morris take the lessons learnt from both its sibling venues and bring them into sharp focus for a beachside crowd. They’ve eschewed traditional paper menus in favour of a central chalkboard, allowing the menu to be updated daily to make room for seasonal produce and whatever Fremantle Harbour’s fishermen are pulling out of the water that day. At the time of speaking with Broadsheet, Fremantle sardines tossed through handmade gnocchetti are the order of the day. The venue’s range of charcuterie is impressive. There’s prosciutto that has come straight from Parma, the salumi is from a range of local suppliers, and there’s the Futari Wagyu bresaola, a personal favourite of Ferguson’s. “The team probably tried 50 different salumis while planning the menu, and [the Futari bresaola] was a standout,” she tells Broadsheet.
Naturally, the wine list focuses on Italian drops and small, family-run Western Australian producers. The list is also dominated by natural and organic wines which, according to Ferguson, is a reflection of the fact that, “they’re just better. You can taste it in the glass, and you can feel it the next day.”
Vin Populi is intended to be an easygoing dining experience. The venue takes bookings, but Ferguson says that most of the space is reserved for walk-ins. “If we can’t seat you immediately, we [encourage] customers to have a drink at one of the excellent nearby bars, and we’ll text you when your table is ready. It’s about that free and easy Fremantle energy.”
The venue itself has a rich history. In a previous life, the venue was home to Roma Cucina, which was opened by the Abrugiato family in 1954. In its heyday, Roma Cucina attracted the likes of David Bowie and Bob Hawke. It was a huge loss to the local community when the family closed its doors and retired in 2022. Ferguson and Morris are determined to bring a fresh take to the space while honouring the venue’s legacy. The textured plaster walls and mosaic-tiled tables and floors evoke memories of Roma Cucina while also remaining modern. “The Freo doctor comes in every afternoon, it’s truly like nothing else,” says Ferguson. “It’s a beautiful space, a beautiful venue, in a beautiful part of Fremantle.”
Vin Populi
11 High Street, Fremantle
Hours
Mon to Fri 4pm–late
Sat & Sun 12pm–late
@vinpopuli
vinpopuli.com.au
12 Jul 2023
12 Jul 2023
06 Jul 2023
04 Jul 2023