As I make my way down the zigzagging street from Luxembourg City’s Ville Haute to the Grund, the old town in the gorge of the River Alzette, it’s easy to forget that I’m in a major financial centre. The capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is home to the European Investment Bank and other important institutions, but they’re based in the modern business district of Kirchberg, a world away from this quasi-pastoral valley. It’s only when I spot the global headquarters of Skype that I’m reminded that there’s a lot going on beneath the surface of this seemingly sleepy place.
This is also literally the case: Luxembourg City is built on and around a sandstone promontory riddled with 15 miles of underground fortifications. Today the weather is warm and bright, but it’s cool and dark inside the Bock Casemates, the network of galleries excavated in the 18th century to augment the city’s already impressive defences.
Ville Haute to the Grund, the old town in the River Alzette gorge
In the valley below, I find myself at the Centre Culturel de Rencontre Abbaye de Neumünster (CCRN). Now a multi-arts venue, the CCRN began life as a Benedictine monastery in the early 17th century and has served variously as a police station, barracks and prison over the years.
Back in the Haute Ville, the city’s grand squares and heritage buildings all lie within a few minutes’ walk of one another. Tucked behind the expansive Place Guillaume II and abutting Luxembourg’s parliament building is the Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of Grand Duke Henri, Luxembourg’s reigning monarch. It’s not open to the public but I find plenty to admire in the fairy-tale 16th-century exterior before exploring the unexpectedly engaging collections of the nearby Luxembourg City History Museum.
The Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of Grand Duke Henri
But it’s not just history that this city does well. Over the Red Bridge on the Kirchberg Plateau stands the Philharmonie, Luxembourg’s 1,500-seater concert hall. Walking in front of its massive colonnaded southern exterior, I feel as if I’m about to be swallowed up by a gigantic whale.
Equally striking is its neighbour, the Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean (MUDAM). Designed by Ieoh Ming Pei, the architect behind the Louvre pyramid, it is a building flooded with light. Its collection – comprising mainly contemporary art by international and Luxembourgish artists – is none the worse for such treatment.
Philharmonie, Luxembourg’s 1,500-seater concert hall
On my final morning, I take the train to Dudelange, a town 20 minutes south of the city that is home to the Centre National de l’Audiovisuel, which holds Luxembourg’s film, music and photographic archives. A new gallery in a converted water tower showcases The Bitter Years 1935-1941, an extraordinary collection of photographs taken by the Farm Security Administration during the Great Depression.
For such a small place, Luxembourg has a surprisingly wide cultural reach.
Luxembourg essentials
GETTING THERE
Luxair (020 7055 5005; luxair.co.uk) offers flights to Luxembourg City from London City airport from £119 return. British Airways (0844 493 0787; britishairways.com) offers flights to Luxembourg City from Heathrow from £84 one-way.
Rail Europe (0844 848 4070; raileurope.co.uk) offers train tickets to Luxembourg City from St Pancras International from £134 return. From Luxembourg City airport, city bus number 16 runs every 10 to 15 minutes to the central railway station, and stops in the city centre.
PACKAGES
Dertour (020 3131 2895; dertour.co.uk) offers a three-night b & b package to Luxembourg from £239 per person, including return flight.
THE INSIDE TRACK
The tourist office is on Place Guillaume II (00352 222809; lcto.lu). It sells a Luxembourg Card, which grants free entry to 55 attractions and free travel on trains and buses (€11/£9 for one day, €19/£15 for two days, €27/£22 for three days).
A flower and produce market takes place in Place Guillaume II every Wednesday and Saturday from 8.30am to 1.30pm.
Lea Linster, one of Luxembourg’s best-known restaurateurs, has opened a shop in the centre of town selling home-made jams, cakes and other sweet things. The madeleines are delicious (Boutique Lea Linster, rue de l’Eau 4; 2785 8500).
Visit ccrn.lu for details of events taking place at Centre Culturel de Rencontre Abbaye de Neumünster; visit philharmonie.lu for the Philharmonie Luxembourg; mudam.lu for MUDAM; mhvl.lu for the Luxembourg City History Museum; and cna.public.lu for the Centre National de l’Audiovisuel.
THE BEST HOTELS
Hôtel Simoncini £
This modernist hotel is less than a minute’s walk from Place Guillaume II.Its 36 rooms are compact but stylish, with original art on the walls; there’s also a gallery on the ground floor (00352 22844; hotelsimoncini.lu; from €110/£89).
Parc Beaux Arts ££
Ten very comfortable suites in a converted town house. Thoughtfully decorated, and accommodating staff (268 6761; parcbeauxarts.lu; from €180/£145).
Hôtel le Place d’Armes £££
The city’s most fashionable and luxurious accommodation option, situated in a listed 18th-century building on the city’s main square. Its restaurant and brasserie are also recommended (274737; hotel-leplacedarmes.com; from €320/£257).
THE BEST RESTAURANTS
À la Soupe
This centrally located, cheerful lunch spot stays open all day and offers interesting soups and salads, including innovative sweet soups for dessert (rue Chimay 9; 2620 2047; alasoupe.net).
Kniddelkinnek ££
A cubby hole of a restaurant that specialises in kniddelen, a Luxembourgish dumpling served with a range of sauces and accompaniments; come with an appetite (rue de la Loge 4; 2747 8059; kniddelkinnek.lu).
Mosconi £££
An Italian restaurant with two Michelin stars. It also has an idyllic location in the Grund, overlooking the River Alzette (rue Münster 13; 546994; mosconi.lu).
WHAT TO AVOID
The city’s population triples every day with the arrival of commuters, so rush hour is not a good time to try to get around.
Because parts of the city are up high and other parts are down in the valleys of the Pétrusse and Alzette rivers, finding your way about can be confusing. When in doubt, ask a local – English is widely spoken.
Wear sensible shoes: the city’s hills and cobbles are unkind to those in heels.
Don’t drive into the city centre – parking is scare and expensive.
DID YOU KNOW?
Luxembourgers had the world’s second-highest per capita GDP in 2011 – £49,899 a head
For more insider guides to other European cities telegraph.co.uk/destinations
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