The Bay of Islands is paradise for beach bums and history buffs alike.
With more than 140 islands, several small towns with rich heritage, and countless walking tracks to explore, there’s plenty to fill your days in this micro-region.
It goes without saying that all itineraries should include a trip to Waitangi, New Zealand’s most important historic site where the Treaty of Waitangi (Te Tiriti o Waitangi) was signed in 1840 between the British Crown and Māori.
But there are many more experiences you shouldn’t miss. Here are 10 Bay of Islands must-dos.
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The town of Russell, known as Kororāreka in the 19th century, was the first European settlement in New Zealand, and back then virtually no laws applied. Prostitution was rife, grog flowed and fights followed.
The Duke of Marlborough is where a lot of it all began. The iconic pub opened in 1827, and in 1840 became the first place in the country to be granted an official liquor licence.
Have a drink on the waterfront, knowing you’re sitting where the most influential people to shape New Zealand’s history tried to solve a few problems (and created a few, too).
While in Russell, make sure you check out one of New Zealand’s most important historic sites – Te Maiki/Flagstaff Hill.
After the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, the sight of the Union Jack flying high on the hill was seen by local Māori as a symbol of what they had lost. In protest against British rule, Ngāpuhi leader Hone Heke and his allies chopped it down four times, leading to the start of the Northern War in 1845.
These days, Flagstaff Hill is far more peaceful place, offering 360-degree views of the Bay of Islands. The Flagstaff Hill Track is an easy 2.5km loop, which should only take about 30 minutes.
Built by French Catholic missionaries in 1842, this elegant building on the Russell waterfront once housed a printing press which churned out 40,000 church texts, translated from Latin into Māori.
The machinery has all been restored to working order, and you can check it out on a fascinating tour which follows the entire publishing and book-binding process as it was in the 19th century, from the tanning pits out the back to the printing, stitching and trimming which took place upstairs.
Tours cost $20 for adults, and accompanied children can enter for free. Make sure you allow plenty of time after your tour to enjoy the beautiful gardens and pop in for a coffee and croissant at the on-site French Coffee House.
No visit to the Bay of Islands is complete without making the trip to see the iconic landmark that is the Hole in the Rock.
Located just off the northern tip of Cape Brett, the island – named Motukōkako – is of deep cultural significance to local Māori, as it is said to be the landing place of Tūnui-ā-rangi, one of the great waka which brought the first Māori to Aotearoa.
While most of the island consists of jagged cliffs, over centuries the wind and waves have carved out a perfect 16-metre arch. You can cruise out to the hole, or even take a helicopter to the top of the island with Salt Air.
Urupukapuka Island is the largest of all of the bay’s 144 islands. Located a 40-minute ferry ride from Paihia or Russell, the island boasts incredible beaches and walking tracks, and as a pest-free sanctuary is home to native birds you’re unlikely to see (or hear) anywhere else.
At Otehei Bay, you can hire a kayak or paddle board, and refuel at the fully licensed café on the waterfront.
The best way to get a sense of the enormity of the Bay of Islands is to see it all dangling from New Zealand’s highest parasail.
How high? 1300 feet towards God. But don’t worry, you won’t make it all the way to meet him – the Paihia-based Flying Kiwi Parasail has an impeccable safety record.
If you have a testy relationship with heights, the heart will get a workout – but just consider this: the youngest to go up was only three, the oldest more than 100. And a nearby retirement village regularly brings its clients so they can tick it off their bucket list. It really is an activity for everyone.
You can do a tandem or triple parasail for $105 per adult ($85 per child under 14), or go it alone for $135.
While you’ll find several spectacular waterfalls in the Bay of Islands, one of the most famous is the horseshoe-shaped Haruru Falls. The best time to visit is after a downpour – then you’ll understand why they’re named “haruru”, which means “big noise” in Māori.
The falls are a 10-minute drive from Paihia, and from the carpark it’s just a two-minute walk through the bush to reach the top. Or you can start from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and enjoy a 2.5-hour trail through native bush and a mangrove forest, before hearing the roar of the falls as they come into sight.
If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can even hire a kayak in Paihia and paddle up the Waitangi River to the base of the falls.
The town of Kerikeri is known as the “fruit bowl of the north”, as the place where some of New Zealand’s first grapes, avocados, citrus and passionfruit were planted.
You can sample some of this fabulous produce at The Old Packhouse, which hosts two lively markets on Saturday and Sunday mornings. As well as fruit and vegetables, there’s also delicious baked goods, local wines and craft beer, arts, crafts, live entertainment and much more.
If you can’t make it to a market, there’s an on-site café which is open daily, and sells breads, pastries, pies and cakes made in the Packhouse bakery. There’s also a store connected to the café where you can pick up local artisan products.
The town of Kawakawa features a unique railway line that runs right down the centre of its busy main street – the only one of its kind in New Zealand, and one of just a few in the world.
You can chug down the middle of the State Highway, with people waving and photographing you on each side, on an hour-long train trip with Bay of Islands Vintage Railway. The train runs from the heritage-listed Kawakawa station to Taumārere’s Long Bridge – which itself is a sight worth seeing, as the longest curved wooden viaduct in the southern hemisphere.
A same-day return ticket costs $20 adult, $5 children (under 5s free), seniors $18, family $45. Check the website for train running times.
Whether you need to go or not, you can’t pass through Kawakawa without a stop at New Zealand’s most photographed loos.
Made from recycled materials, the colourful public toilets were designed by Austrian-born artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who lived near Kawakawa in the later years of his life. The facilities opened in 1999, just two months before Hundertwasser’s death.
Hundertwasser fans should also check out Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park. The new community hub features a gallery dedicated to his works, as well as additional public toilets and pay-per-use showers that can be used by freedom campers.
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