Sydney has no shortage of exemplary Japanese restaurants. Our burgeoning Japanese community – and the added bonus of a world-class fish market – has brought to the city not only a calibre of cuisine on par with what you’d find in Japan, but also the full spectrum of the country’s varied dining experiences. Enter the omakase, an intimate, high-end style of Japanese dining that’s exploded in Sydney in recent years.
Roughly translating as “I’ll leave it to you”, omakase is the Japanese chef’s table par excellence. It usually involves one highly skilled chef serving up a lengthy degustation of bite-sized courses (15 dishes over two hours isn’t uncommon) to a small number of diners seated around a small open kitchen. Sushi and sashimi is a major component, but otherwise it’s a pure expression of the seasons – as well the chef’s expertise. Like any chef’s table, an omakase meal usually comes with an eye-watering price tag. But it’s an experience like no other, and one that’s worth paying the big bucks for. Here’s where to splash out.
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Few of the city’s restaurants replicate the feeling of being in Japan quite like Kisuke. Maybe it’s because husband-and-wife duo Yusuke and Izumi Morita run the place all by themselves. Or maybe it’s the blond-timber and hushed ambiance. Whatever it is, Kisuke is as close as you’ll get to a true, neighbourhood omakase experience in Japan without leaving Sydney.
Door to door, it’s about a five minutes’ drive from Sydney Fish Market to Sokyo. With that kind of proximity, it’s not hard to see why the sushi and sashimi at Chase Kojima’s sophisticated Japanese restaurant draws an endless crowd. The best way to experience it? At Sokyo’s intimate omakase counter, where just six diners settle in for up to 23 dishes, from scallop ravioli to robata-grilled Wagyu.
Nobu Harada’s Sydney outpost has all the lofty hallmarks of his eponymous international restaurants, and one extra: a 10-seat omakase counter helmed by master sushi chef, Ryuichi Yoshii. Yoshii brings almost four decades of experience to the table, and his daily menu fetches exactly the kind of prices you’d expect from a restaurant at Crown Casino. But that doesn’t deter the high rollers – Yoshii’s place is notoriously hard to book.
The truest expression of this ambitious fine diner’s “root-to-stem” philosophy is found at its 10-seat chef’s table, Kuro’s Kitchen. Helmed by head chef Taka Teramoto (formerly of Michelin-starred restaurants Restaurant Pages in Paris and Florilege in Tokyo), it’s an elegant experience with a surprisingly lo-fi booking system: text the number and you’ll receive a confirmation email if you’re successful. Then, it’s a three-hour culinary journey fusing Japanese tradition with French techniques.
From Sydney seafood restaurateur Joel Best comes this 12-seat omakase diner at the top end of town. Seafood nigiri takes pride of place, and there’s a formidable selection of Japanese whisky to tipple. You might end up sharing some with your neighbour – it’s all about the convivial vibe here. Lunch or dinner spans 18 courses, plus you can tack on a wine or sake pairing if you’re going all out.
In Japanese, Haco means “theatre”, and that’s exactly what you’ll get at this luxe omakase counter by Chaco Bar’s Keita Abe. The star of the show is Osaka-style kushiage: panko-crumbed skewers of meat and veg deep-fried in pork lard or extra-virgin sesame oil. But your 20-course degustation also involves market-best seafood, exquisite sake and the feeling that you are, indeed, a spectator to one hell of a show.
For his moody yakitori den, Chaco Bar’s Keita Abe was inspired by the grungy yakitori joints in his Japanese hometown of Fukuoka. But there are luxurious Sydney touches here, too. The daily set menu is one of them – a free-wheeling degustation of skewered meats and high-end ingredients such as uni, caviar and truffles.
When this tiny neighbourhood Japanese spot announced it would be undergoing a major reinvention in 2022, many feared its cult duck yuzu ramen would get left behind. Fear not – the ramen is now a part of a lengthy degustation the owners have dubbed “Australian kaiseki”. Come for local ingredients transformed into artful Japanese dishes. And ramen, of course.
Raita Noda was one of the first Japanese chefs in Sydney to strike out on their own and bring omakase dining to Sydney. Unlike the culinary marathons served by his peers, Noda prepares a keenly priced 10-course menu every night of the week except Sunday. It’s no less exacting, and will transport you to Japan every time.
Behind a nondescript door in the CBD, the second iteration of Toko echoes the experience beloved at the original Surry Hills site for more than 15 years – with good-times playlists, signature dishes including Moreton Bay bug tempura, and a dedicated omakase spanning a whopping 24 dishes – including 14 pieces of nigiri. This one’s only available on weekdays, and will be resuming later this year.
Dripping in pink neon, Chase Kojima’s ramen joint serves noodle soups unlike anywhere else as part of a lively, multi-course degustation. There’s fine-dining flair in every bowl (your choice of yuzu shio, duck soy and more), plus killer snacks and dessert served either side. At 20 seats, it’s bigger than most omakase experiences – but it’s also more affordable. This is ramen, but not as you know it.
Merivale’s Sushi E was among the first restaurants to introduce Sydney to omakase-style dining, and it’s only gotten better with time. You can dine à la carte here every night except Sunday – but if you’re here for the omakase, it’s only available Tuesday to Thursday. Pull up at the marble counter for premium seafood, sake and no shortage of knife skills.
Matt Moran’s good-looking, Japanese-inspired listening bar at Barangaroo House is a relative newcomer on the omakase scene. But if you’re angling for an experience with a serious soundtrack (courtesy of Rekodo’s gorgeous, high-end sound system), this one’s for you. At around 10 courses, the smaller of the two omakase options is bang for your buck considering what you get. Harbour views included.
Set within the historical Campbell’s Stores precinct, this luxe Japanese diner lets you choose your own experience. There’s an omakase counter where your meal is left entirely up to the chefs, and a bigger dining area with a set menu. But there’s fresh-caught seafood and sake on the cards no matter where you sit.
A design inspired by Japanese folklore. A former Sushi E chef in the kitchen. And a surprising owner behind it all. This cavernous Japanese restaurant among Waterloo’s showrooms and car dealerships may be in an unlikely spot – but it’s serving up one of the city’s must-try omakase experiences.
Split over two intimate levels, this sophisticated neighbourhood diner punches above its weight with a former Sokyo chef in the kitchen and a top mixologist behind the bar. Pull up at the counter for elegant Japanese dishes infused with native Australian ingredients, fruit-forward highballs and warm neighbourhood vibe.
Kuon Omakase, Haymarket
There’s plenty to love – and loathe – about the shininess of Sydney’s Darling Square dining precinct. Kuon Omakase sits in the former category, and it’s (arguably) the most sought-after restaurant in the area for a reason. It’s high-end, to be sure – but the prices are justified for what you get: stellar seafood, a temple-like atmosphere, and a list of mostly French wines. Just 12 seats here.
Sushi Oe, Cammeray
Chef Toshihiko Oe opens up reservations at his eponymous restaurant one month in advance. And with only six seats and no way to book besides text message, the competition is stiff to say the least. If you’re lucky enough to snag a spot, you’ll be rewarded with more than just an elegant meal. Like Kisuke in Potts Point, the timber-clad Oe delivers an experience that suspends disbelief – you may as well be dining in a local gem on some Tokyo backstreet.
Gold Class Daruma, Sydney
If you’re chasing a hotel omakase experience like you’d find in Japan, hop on the escalators and ascend to the first floor of The Grace Hotel on York Street. The white-jacketed chefs at Gold Class host multiple seatings throughout the day – including a late one on Fridays and Saturdays that kicks off at 10pm. You can also do a sake omakase for around $20.
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