Similar to my feelings on Succession’s recent finale, or the slightly burnt edges of a Sara Lee sticky date pudding, I have little to no complaints about the restaurant I dined at last week.
Annoyingly, it seems most of Perth feel the same way.
After trying to get a booking for the past few months, to no avail, I finally locked in a table on a Tuesday evening.
As you may be able to tell, I’m trying to hold off saying its name for as long as I can in the hope that it doesn’t get any more popular or difficult to snag a spot.
Sigh, fine, it’s Vin Populi in Fremantle. There is no missing that it’s an Italian joint from the moment you enter, from the traditional dishes to the attentive wait staff with joyous accents to the music that’s playing.
The menu is scrawled on a blackboard — antipasti, mains, sides, two desserts and wine by the glass — or a wine list with Italian and local drops is available too. Its dining room is stylish and relaxed with textured walls and tiled and terrazzo floors.
My dining partner, over from America, was overjoyed to finally have some local octopus ($18) after four years away and the tender morsels didn’t disappoint. As we caught up we also nibbled on some warm bread and tasty zucchini ($13) that was grilled and served simply with olive oil and herbs.
For mains, my eyes were immediately drawn to the rigatoni all’amatriciana — a tomato-based pasta sauce with chilli, guanciale and pecorino —a dish I had for nearly every meal during my last trip to Italy. This call may see me banned from their country, but it was the best version I’ve had.
We also tried the tagliatelle osso bucco ($32), which we anticipated could be a little heavy. But the braised sauce through al dente pasta had enough oomph to coat the pasta without feeling like we’d soon be in a good coma.
Luckily, unlike Succession, this equally addictive venue is in its first season so there is plenty of time to head down and see what all the fuss is about.
11 High St, Fremantle
OPEN
Mon-Thurs, 4-10pm, Fri-Sun, 12-10pm
BOOKINGS
Yes
CONTACT
Vinpopuli.com.au
THE VERDICT
It’s hard to fault this Italian joint in Fremantle, other than it’s so popular it can be difficult to book a table.
19/20
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