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Stunning Amsterdam has a village vibe and a lively night scene, thanks to all the stag and hens dos that come to town. Photo / Getty Images
Planning a trip to Europe? Ewan McDonald takes a look at the continent’s most famous hot spots, from Amsterdam to Zagreb.
“How about an A-Z guide to the best of Europe’s capital cities,” the Travel Editor suggested, and that’s where the dilemmas began. It’s not as simple as it sounds.
Some lists count 55 centres of government across the continent but we can knock off those four British capitals, Monaco doesn’t have one and Vatican City is inside another. Don’t really think Turkiye is in Europe. Due to the tragic events in Ukraine, historic and architecturally stunning Kyiv isn’t in this lineup. Moscow has been red-carded.
That leaves 40-plus cities, each offering history, architecture, parks, museums, art treasures and (usually) fine cuisine and nightlife. Your favourite might not be on this short list (sorry, Bratislava) but here’s a snapshot of modern Europe from east to west, north to south.
Pub-quizzers note: yes, it is the Netherlands’ capital, not The Hague. Amsterdam’s famous canals, quaint buildings, museums and hedonistic lifestyle make it one of the continent’s most popular destinations. One of Europe’s largest airport and rail hubs, it’s a good start or end point for a wider tour and a less crowded or overwhelming experience than megacities like Berlin or Rome. The town has the feel of an overgrown village and can largely be explored on bike or foot. Be aware it’s one of the more expensive cities and don’t expect quiet nights – Amsterdam and Dublin are the stag and hen party capitals of Europe.
The oldest capital in Europe, it’s essentially a huge, open-air museum and you’ll feel you’re walking through thousands of years of history and mythology – climbing the Acropolis to the Parthenon, the Temple of Zeus, or ambling past ancient ruins that are just part of the neighbourhood. After you’ve done the archaeological highlights, enjoy the Mediterranean cuisine or haggle in the markets. Expect: Chaos. Heat. Pickpockets.
Our first two capitals have grown up on a human scale; Berlin is the epitome of imperial and contemporary grandeur – the Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, dazzling modern architecture. History is ever-present in the remnants of the Berlin Wall and the sombre Holocaust Memorial. But this is very much a city of today, a creative and cultural hub boasting some of Europe’s best nightlife and music scenes, street art on every corner. Some of its largest and loveliest parks for strolling and picnicking, too.
Like several more of the capitals we’ll visit, Budapest was hidden behind the Iron Curtain for decades; one of Europe’s oldest cities is blossoming as one of its most vibrant destinations. Lining the banks of the Danube and a favoured river-cruise port, Budapest has stunning architecture, vibrant nightlife, a creative food scene and intriguing history at the crossroads of several empires. Adding to the fun, Hungary uses its own currency and impenetrable language, so you won’t feel you’re in yet another EuroDisney theme park. Walk the riverbanks, admire the Parliament Buildings, climb Castle Hill and steam in baroque mineral baths.
The world’s happiest city, the charming little Danish capital is packed with history, Renaissance-era castles and buildings, Hans Christian Andersen fairytales, Tivoli Gardens amusement park and the Little Mermaid statue. It has laws that permit only white Christmas lights, bans skyscrapers and billboards, and bikes outnumber cars by five to one. It’s home to the world’s longtime No 1 restaurant, Noma. That’s expensive, and so are the hotels.
Nearly one in five Kiwis boasts Irish ancestry; that, rugby rivalry and a certain dark beverage draw many of them to Dublin at least once in their lifetimes. It’s a rollicking, rowdy city where there’s always a warm welcome, even if the weather doesn’t always play along, famous for its pubs, chat, musical, literary and party reputation. You’ll have a great time but Ireland has suffered economically lately and you’ll pay dearly for it.
The quirky, buzzy, gritty Portuguese capital punches above its weight: unique buildings you won’t see elsewhere, often cloaked in blue tiles, centuries of sea-going history, superb seafood and steaks, exceptional contemporary art and nightlife, gorgeous turn-of-the-century cafes. Must-do: visit hilltop Alfama and listen to fado, heart-wrenching folk music, in a darkened bar. Great weather (usually) and a value-for-money destination.
Think about visiting Spain and you think… Barcelona. Sure, the Catalan centre has the cool vibe but Madrid is the nation’s capital, the heartbeat of a global superpower for several hundred years, and it’s not about to allow visitor or resident to forget it. Best described as a stately city, you’ll appreciate three of the greatest art museums, fine parks like the Retiro, classic architecture like the imposing royal palace. But this is not a stuffy city – Madrilenos like to eat and drink, and there’s a buzzing creative scene. Don’t miss: Picasso’s Guernica; Goya and Velazquez in the Prado.
There are, apparently, people who can find things not to like about Paris. They are, however, vastly outnumbered by the 40 million people drawn to Europe’s most visited city each year. This means yes, it can be crowded, particularly in midsummer; and yes, it can be expensive, but you can always find a relatively cheap and cheerful bed and bistro here. After that, it’s over to you. You should really go full tourist – climb the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, admire the Louvre, Musee d’Orsay and Sacre-Coeur, day-trip to Versailles. Mostly, and especially if it’s your first visit, just walk, taking a break with a baguette in the Luxembourg Gardens, an aperitif in a wine bar on Rue de Rivoli, a meal in a corner bistro, late-night hot chocolate at Les Deux Magots. All the while planning your next trip: as Audrey Hepburn advised, “Paris is always a good idea.”
Blessing and a curse. Prague is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – and so attracts millions of tourists, bumping up prices and cramming its compact medieval centre. Its narrow, winding streets, cobbled lanes, courtyards and church spires, all in the shadow of the commanding 9th-century hilltop castle, reflect its longtime role as the capital of Bohemia. It’s not living in its past, however: the modern, energetic and youthful side of the city embraces the off-beat vibe it donated to the world, “Bohemian”. We haven’t even mentioned the Czech beer. Yet.
The world’s northernmost capital city (no, that’s not why we’re including it) is home to more than half of Iceland’s population (about 125,000, smaller than Tauranga). Colourful and bohemian (apologies to Prague), it’s extremely walkable, packed with restaurants, cafes, bars and museums. It’s become wildly popular over the past decade for its cultural and design scene, as a base to explore the island’s natural wonders such as the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa and the Northern Lights – and for its nightlife. The small downtown is ideal for microbreweries and bar crawls. As well as some of Europe’s outstanding craft beers – at eye-watering prices – the country hosts Northern Europe’s best music festivals. Blame Bjork.
Julius Caesar might have come, seen and conquered but it’s a fair bet that most visitors will come, see and be conquered by the wonderful, maddening, crazy, seductive chaos that is Rome. It’s not so much a city as a melting pot of utterly bewildering and bewitching opposites – of wealth and poverty, of fashion and tat, of high art and crude graffiti, of Machiavellian politicians and bumbling incompetence in collecting garbage. You’ll come for the big-ticket items, the Colosseum, Forum, St Peter’s and the Vatican Museums, the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps, that cement Rome’s place as one of the world’s most historic and romantic cities. Tip: book those tickets/tour guides well in advance, and from a reputable service.
But there is nothing that can beat a walk through the streets of the Eternal and sometimes infernal City. It’s not only history hiding around every corner; it’s the gelato spot, the little corner restaurant, the bar, the street market, and the best show in town – the irrepressible, unpredictable, charming, frustrating, strutting, living every minute as if it were their last, citizens of Rome.
Honestly, you’ll be safe. Most of those Scandi-noir series and novels are pure fiction. The EU’s first “green capital”, a city of 2.3 million people living on 14 islands connected by 57 bridges, is a breezy seaport with great cafe culture, food that’s probably best described as comforting, a colourful Old Town. Stockholm is a serious museum city – more than 100 of them, of which the best-known is the Vasa, highlighting maritime history from Viking times. Bed, breakfast and everyday costs can be eye-watering.
As much as Rome is hot, crowded, chaotic and look-at-me, Vienna is the polar opposite. Its citizens can be standoffish; the city the epitome of ordered and arms-length; understatement is the rule of life. It’s also the most majestic capital on this list – bar none. Its palaces, its opera houses, and its apartments are exquisite, reflecting centuries of imperial power, held close to their chests by the Hapsburgs, one of the most powerful and wealthy dynasties in European history. It is musical: Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Strauss, Schubert; artistic: Klimt, Schiele; intellectual: Freud, Trotsky… and it’s fun too. The home of cafe culture, schnitzel and cardiac-arresting cakes; try to get there for the Christmas markets.
Visitors often overlook Poland’s capital; they’re missing a gem. The Old Town, rebuilt after World War II, is a Unesco World Heritage Site; those with an interest in the history of that conflict can find much to explore in the city’s many museums. The country was pivotal in the fall of communism in 1989 and Warsaw has benefited from the end of that dreary regime. Much of the city has been modernised and it’s nurtured a vibrant youth-led art and cultural revival. Perhaps the cuisine isn’t as exciting as other places here; all-around costs are much lighter, though.
We haven’t included this one just to meet the editor’s brief for an A-Z listing. Croatia’s capital didn’t get a walk-on part in Game of Thrones so it’s not as well-known, visited or expensive as certain over-hyped and jam-packed spots down the Adriatic, but it has a laid-back and leafy charm: cafes border cobbled squares and streets, locals gossip for hours over coffee and pastry; market stalls offer fruit, vegetables, honey, bread from early morning; the city promenades around the squares and past castles in the evening. It’s the essence of European life. It’s why you came.
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