Pansies offer bright color in the garden and on the dinner table. You can also add them to salads and other dishes that need a spark of color. (Fran Kittek / Morning Call file photo)
Last year I had a pansy in a pot. When it was time for the first frost, I brought the pot indoors. I kept the plant in a garden window that faces south.
I was surprised that it made it through the winter. It was not the best looking, but it made it. When spring came, I put it back outside. It made it through the summer, and now I have brought it back indoors.
I am wondering how long I can keep it going. Thank you.
— Sherry
Pansies, part of the cola family (Viola x wittrockiana). They feature vibrant colors and large, heart-shaped petals that overlap, Useful in planters, borders or even as ground covers they are reliable cool-season flowers and mix well with other flowers with the same needs.
Pansies are biennials, having a two-year lifecycle. They are generally grown for only a season or two, like spring, and, if kept watered and shaded, again in the fall.
Those sold as winter or icicle cultivars are planted in the fall, die back, and return in the spring. However, they are hardy in Zones 3 through 8 if they survive the summer heat. I have never seen a reliably heat-tolerant variety. Pansies usually either die in the heat or get rather miserable looking.
Cool-weather favorites, pansies don’t seem to mind the cold. A frost, even a very cold one, often survives. The blooms wither, but some plants bloom again.
What makes pansies happy? Plant in early spring or fall.
For the earliest bloom, buy transplants. Seeds take up to three weeks to germinate, depending on the soil temperature, and should be started about 10 weeks before the last spring frost for spring flowers, late summer for fall blooms.
Pansies are edible and make beautiful additions to salads, entrees and desserts, but must be grown from seed or purchased as edible to avoid consuming unwanted chemicals. Also, do not treat with any chemical that is not recommended for food plants,
Plant out in spring when the ground is workable and there are few frosts expected. The new plants can survive a frost or two but will not do well if you set out too early.
These plants prefer moist, rich, and well-drained soil. Set in an area that receives full or partial sun but needs protection from heat in the late afternoon. In spring or fall, place on a south-facing location, in the summer, move to an eastern exposure.
Space about seven inches apart as they spread 9 to 12 inches across. Mature plants are six to nine inches tall.
If you choose to grow pansies in containers, use ordinary potting soil recommended for containers. Keep pots small, 12 inches or less, if you need to move the planter to a cooler spot as the spring and summer progress.
Once planted, water pansies regularly, particularly those in containers. Fertilize with any all-purpose mix. But avoid those with high nitrogen as they may develop lots of leaves and few flowers. Deadhead plants to encourage reblooming and a longer bloom season.
There are quite a few problems that pansies face: Downy and powdery mildew, crown and root rot, mosaic viruses, rusts and gray molds, slugs, snails, and aphids.
The main problem with overwintering plants outside in pots is temperature, The soil remains warmer than the pot.
Why? Air temperatures are generally cooler than the soil. Plants in pots lose the insulation of surrounding soil and are considered to be at least one zone cooler than your garden beds.
When you consider a container, remember how it survives winter. Thin plastic cracks get brittle and shatter. Terra cotta and ceramics don’t fare much better. Nursery containers are very thin-walled and offer little protection.
Look for thicker plastic or composite mix containers.
Move the pots to a protected area — generally, against the foundation of your home is one of the best locations. Move them out of the wind, far from the usual browsing trail of local deer and near enough that you can water them during warm dry spells.
If your plants go dormant, they can be stored in low-light areas like under decks or unheated garages. However, non-dormant ones — evergreens, for example — still require light during the winter.
Large pots or clusters of pots can be wrapped in burlap or bubble wrap — around the containers, not over the top. If you have the space and energy, pots can be trenched in. This requires digging a ditch that can contain the pot and backfill around it. Fill only up to the top of the pot.
Your containers will need watering, but with a light touch and quite infrequently. Dormant plants still need water. If the soil is moist, fine; if dry, water lightly.
Do not encourage new growth. Avoid fertilizing and pruning your stored plants. New growth is not very cold-resistant and is easily damaged.
My technique is to gather the pots in an old wooden sandbox that is easily reached with a hose for watering. Aside from a few deer visits, most plants survive reasonably well there, but it depends on the winter. In a mild winter, unprotected plants in thin pots may survive.
Deep snow may act as insulation against the cold winter wind. But if you want your plants to survive, take a few simple steps to protect them.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
Planting: Use asters, kale, mums, winter pansies and other fall garden favorites to brighten the fall landscape. Add pumpkins, gourds, straw or corn to seasonal displays. Protect plants from frost for longer color. Finish planting spring-flowering bulbs, garlic and shallots, asparagus and rhubarb, perennials, trees and shrubs. Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination.
Seasonal: Clear off mushy foliage after frosts. Remove spent annual and vegetable plants from planters and beds. Keep pathways clear of dead plants and leaves. Remove and store Halloween decorations after the holiday. Clean, check, repair and store decorations, discarding all that are damaged. Dig up and store other tender bulbs as the foliage is killed off by cold weather or frosts. Allow the final flush of flowers to go to seed. Many provide food for the birds and small mammals during the fall and winter. Plan ahead, if you are purchasing a live potted or burlapped Christmas tree, find an appropriate planting spot, dig it out and store the soil, covered or in a container in the garage.
Lawns: Rake, blow or mulch leaves on the lawn. Matted leaves encourage mold problems and can keep water from reaching the soil. Keep newly-seeded or sodded lawns watered; supplement rain in weeks where less than an inch. Fill in holes and low spots in lawn.
Chores: Watch for frosts. Protect tender plants and get a few more weeks of color. Stop pruning. Mark off beds, new plantings, plants that are late to break dormancy in the spring and delicate plants. Stay off them when decorating or dealing with snow removal.
Cut to the ground: Allium moly, spent hollyhocks. Trim bleeding hearts, blanket flowers, hardy cranesbills, and Shasta daisies, allowing the basal foliage (the bottom clump of leaves) to remain. Remove flower stalks or scapes from: daylilies, gayfeather (liatris), and yuccas. Order or buy mulch for winter but do not apply until the ground freezes. Stop watering amaryllis bulbs. Allow the bulbs to dry out and go dormant. Store in a cool dry area until they resprout in about 8 to 10 weeks. Check seed inventory for late crops and fall planting. Harvest crops regularly, at least every other day. Remove and compost spent plants. Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations. Water any recent plantings and containers anytime we experience a week with less than an inch of rain. Repair damaged screens and caulking around windows and doors in preparation for the indoor invasion of wintering over insects and rodents.
Maintain deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents. Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls. Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week. Use a small heater to keep water liquid during cold weather.
Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
Tools, equipment, and supplies: Clean and maintain summer equipment, then store or send for repair.
Check winter/fall equipment, repair or replace as needed.
Safety: Check wiring before installing any seasonal light displays.Clear lawns of debris before mowing or mulching leaves.
Make sure pets, children and others are well away from the area being mown or blown.
Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events. Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly. Any time you are outside and the temperatures are about 50°F or warmer watch for tick bites. Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden. Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun. Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.
Copyright © 2022, The Morning Call
Copyright © 2022, The Morning Call