With the now-closed Argyle diamond mine nearby, for years locals joked that it was easier to find a precious gem in Kununurra than a vegan meal. “I’ve been plant-based for eight years and I usually don’t eat out unless I’m down at the pub getting some hot chips,” Laura Drinkwater laughingly laments to Broadsheet. But with the reopening and refurbishment of The Pumphouse, that’s rapidly changing.
It’s no surprise that Drinkwater is excited by the menu at the newly reopened Pumphouse, where she is serving as restaurant manager. The contemporary menu marries Asian and Central American influences with native ingredients to create such dishes as lemongrass and chilli emu cold rolls; “bush tacos” stuffed with blue swimmer crab, fermented black beans and bush tomato; and roasted eggplant with miso, nori and bush pepper. But it’s the abundance of vegan, vegetarian, nut-free, dairy-free and gluten-free options that have significantly expanded the choices for plant-based diners in the East Kimberley hub.
Catering to multiple dietaries has been facilitated by local producers. For example, 650 kilograms of mangoes have been sourced from one of the owner’s farms. They’re being utilised by both the kitchen and the bar, where a list of bespoke house cocktails joins Spinifex beers on tap and an open-minded wine list that has Margaret River chardy sitting alongside Tasmanian sparkling and Victorian pinot.
The venue, which was the original pumping station for the ambitious Ord River irrigation scheme, was closed for almost two years before reopening in March this year. The new owners (who also own scenic flight providers Aviair and Helispirit) wanted to keep the beloved venue in local hands and were adamant they would not change too much about the iconic venue. “They literally just gave it a lick of paint, jazzed up the wine list and upped the service level,” says Drinkwater.
Inside, 80 seats are scattered around the giant green turbines that dominate the industrial facility. Drinkwater laughs that it is “definitely” the fanciest place in town, while the outdoor deck makes the most of the location beside the Ord River. “The setting is unbelievable because it’s the only place in Kununurra where you can be sitting right by the river and watching the sunset,” says Drinkwater. “And at the right time of the month, you can also watch the moon rise on the opposite side, so people are taking photos nonstop and it’s a really great vibe.”
Pumphouse Kununurra
Lakeview Drive, Kununurra
Hours:
Thurs to Mon 4pm–10pm
pumphousekununurra.com.au/
@pumphouse_kununurra