When Shamiat introduced Syrian cuisine to Northcote in 2019, locals flocked to the site for chef Helda Almorani’s lamb-stuffed kibbeh, chargrilled chicken skewers and vibrant muhammara (a chunky walnut, capsicum and pomegranate molasses spread), dishes perfected over 25 years.
“When I was in university, I made a few traditional plates for my family and friends to try and they loved it,” says Almorani. “Since then, I knew I had a passion for cooking and how it would bring people together and help us appreciate our culture.”
Almorani owns Shamiat with her partner Atallah Abo. The married couple fled the civil war in Syria in 2016 and moved to Australia.
Last year, the two shops next door to Shamiat became available, providing an opportunity for the pair to expand their offering. Now, in addition to the original venue, there’s a dessert shop and beside it, an all-day cafe.
The latter specialises in traditional Syrian breakfasts which, according to the team, typically revolve around legumes and some sort of carb. The Family Breakfast is the best way to try a bit of everything – think fried eggs and haloumi, pickles and spreads, a hearty fava bean stew called foul mudammas and a yoghurt, flatbread and chickpea dish called fatteh.
“A traditional Syrian breakfast consists of many small plates spread across the table,” says Almorani. “Traditionally, as with many other mealtimes, breakfast is one that brings the family together.”
When the cafe closes at 5pm, diners can spill into the sweet shop for syrupy slabs of baklava, rosewater-laced rice pudding and date-filled ma’amoul biscuits. Or they can shuffle into the adjoining restaurant for another feed. It’s recently been renovated to reflect a traditional Damascus dining room, with ceramic tiled arches on the walls plus stained-glass lanterns and carved wooden panels hanging from the ceiling.
Once the liquor license is approved, the restaurant’s back bar will be stocked with beer, wine and arak, an anise-flavoured spirit. But for now, diners can bring their own supply free of charge.
Shamiat
64 Victoria Rd, Northcote
03 9486 4458
Restaurant Hours
Mon 5pm–10pm
Wed to Fri 5pm–10pm
Sat & Sun 11am–10pm
Cafe Hours
Mon 8am–5pm
Wed to Sun 8am–5pm
shamiat.com.au
03 Aug 2023
02 Aug 2023
02 Aug 2023
01 Aug 2023