ROCKLAND – For someone whose life has been dedicated to coffee for the last three decades, Michael Sullivan’s own taste is surprisingly simple.
For Sullivan, who lives in Braintree, it doesn’t matter if the beans come from Brazil, Columbia or Mexico, if they’re light, medium or dark roast. All that matters, he says, is a well-balanced cup of joe.
“Here’s the thing about coffee. I’m going to love a great coffee, and you aren’t going to like it,” Sullivan explained. “It’s all individual, and it’s an acquired taste. I don’t like to push one thing on people. I let them try a variety and go from there.”
Sullivan is the owner and roaster of Harmon Coffee, a Rockland-based small-batch coffee company he runs out of a commercial space on Centre Avenue. The space is dominated by a massive commercial coffee roaster and burlap sacks of raw coffee beans slumped against the wall. An automatic scale, label printer and bagging machine in the corners, and Sullivan – the sole full time employee of the operation – stands at the center.
When he first started Harmon Coffee in 2013, Sullivan was working out of a shed in his Braintree backyard and producing about 500 pounds of coffee per week for local cafes. With 21 years working in the coffee roasting industry before branching out on his own, he had the know-how to source his own beans and write his own blend recipes, but was outsourcing the actual roasting process.
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He took the plunge and bought his own roaster two years ago, and now roasts more than 3,500 pounds of coffee per month for individual sale and clients like Stevie G’S Restaurant in Rockland, Square Café and the Pour chain of coffee shops with locations in Hanover, Cohasset and Norwell.
Sullivan has traveled far and wide to find the perfect suppliers. He starts his coffee blends with raw beans sourced from around the world. Then he dumps the beans into the roaster, where he’s preprogramed temperature, time and other factors to make the coffee. Some beans are flavored – he sells pumpkin spice, mocha cinnamon swirl and banana hazelnut, to name a few.
“It takes a while to get it right,” he said. “I’ve tried a lot of samples trying to make it taste good.”
Sullivan weight and bags the coffee on his own – both beans and grounds – and slaps them with a label. His most popular coffees are the Bunker Hill, a medium-dark blend; Cinnamon Hazelnut, and his personal favorite, Ethiopian, which he describes as fruity with occasional notes of chocolate.
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Sullivan envisions the next steps as a packaging machine and maybe even a café with a glass wall so customers can see the roasting room.
“I’m local, I have a great product at a great price. That’s the feedback I hear – people like that I’m local and hands on,” Sullivan said. “I see every aspect, from A to Z.”
Uniquely Local is a series of stories by Mary Whitfill highlighting the South Shore’s farmers, bakers and makers. Have a story idea? Reach Mary at mwhitfill@patriotledger.com.
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