Russia’s ongoing strikes on electrical infrastructure have forced Ukrainians to get used to living in the dark.
Electricity has been rationed and power outages are frequent, in what Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy has described as Russia’s “energy terror.”
But even without light, heating, refrigeration, and electrical ovens, restaurants and bars in Ukraine continue to welcome customers during power cuts, thanks to specially-adapted menus of food that can be prepared during a blackout.
Igor Novikov’s favorite restaurant, Thailand Hi, was one of the first to introduce a ‘blackout menu’ — stripping away all dishes that require electricity, and adding extra pan-fried meals, salads, and cocktails.
Novikov — a former advisor to President Zelenskyy — lives in Kyiv with his wife and two daughters. He’s visited several restaurants during blackouts, and told Insider that the atmosphere is “completely unique.”
“With candles burning and dancing shadows on the walls, it can be incredibly romantic,” he said.
At Escobar, a Cuban restaurant in Kyiv, there’s still live music every Thursday by candlelight.
Guests can dine from a blackout menu including hummus, liver pâté, nachos, steak tartare and avocado salad.
They can also order coffee and tea during power outages, as the restaurant uses flasks to keep drinks warm.
Staff have even learned to prepare Escobar’s signature cocktails “by touch,” so they can keep the drinks flowing in the dark, according to manager Anna Golovko.
Guests, too, have adapted. Some bring their own lamps when they visit, and one couple even set up a video of a burning fireplace for employees and other patrons to enjoy. “You can’t defeat people like that,” said Golovko.
Under Wonder, an Italian restaurant in central Kyiv, is still committed to fine dining through its blackout menu.
A post shared by Under Wonder (@underwonder.kyiv)
Manager Dmytro Tkachenko told Insider it has designed a reduced — but still “exquisite” — array of dishes that can be prepared without electricity.
Options include:
Tkachenko told Insider: “We are Ukrainians. We are strong. We can adapt to anything.”
The restaurant has “doubled” the amount of candles it purchases, according to Tkachenko.
Unable to use most of their electricity-reliant kitchen facilities, Under Wonder has also started cooking on portable mini-barbecues, adding an element of “theatricality” to meals.
It’s a similar story at Kanapa, a restaurant in central Kyiv that serves traditional Ukrainian cuisine with a modern twist.
Kanapa is lucky, according to manager Anna Boruk, because it’s located within a nineteenth-century building that was “designed for a world without electricity.”
There’s a large fireplace to keep guests warm, as well as a wood-fired brick oven — which has now become central to Kanapa’s cooking.
Before the war, Kanapa mainly used the oven to heat large vats of traditional Ukrainian Borscht, a soup made with beetroot. Now, chefs rely on it for almost all their dishes — with the exception of Chicken Kyiv, which needs to be fried on a stove.
Kanapa has invested in battery-powered electrical candles, and the team have revived old, blackout-appropriate favorites — including edible butter candles.
For Boruk, the survival of Ukraine’s bars and restaurants is a show of defiance. “Russia is trying to break us, but Ukrainians are so strong that we still keep going out. We keep visiting bar and restaurants. We’re not scared of the dark.”
She said some guests were worried when the blackouts began, but people are “already getting used to it.”
She told Insider: “We’ve even had some guests calling and asking: ‘Can you tell us when you’re going to be out of power because I want to take my girlfriend out for a romantic dinner?'”
Restaurant staff have adapted — but they do miss the light. Kanapa’s team pride themselves on the presentation of their food, so they’re “disappointed” that guests can’t appreciate their usual work, said Boruk.
Igor Novikov says the war has sparked an explosion of creativity, which will change the way businesses operate in Ukraine.
He told Insider: “What you see develop in Ukraine under these harsh circumstances will be the new normal everywhere.”
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