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Updated: November 7, 2022 @ 3:45 am
Skill in raising vegetable and flowing plants from seeds is the cornerstone of gardening independence. Choosing seeds and careful handling them can bring the gardener not only an earlier harvest, a bigger harvest but a better selection of plant varieties.
First, gardeners should choose seed varieties that are adapted to this area. This means choosing those plant seeds that would reach maturity before a killing frost or high temperatures. Many new vegetable and flower varieties are hybrids, which cost more, but will usually have more vigor, uniformity and better production than non-hybrids.
Although some seeds will keep for several years, if stored properly, it is advisable to purchase only enough for the current year’s use unless you have varieties that are hard to find. Packaged seeds will not contain seeds from other crops, weed seeds and other debris.
When purchasing seeds, read the printing on the seed packet. The printing will usually indicate essential information about the variety, the year for which the seeds were packaged, germination percentages, approximate harvest time frame and planting instructions.
The seeds purchased for a garden are made up of three parts: dormant plant embryo, a food supply and a protective seed coat. When the seed is planted, a three-stage germination begins.
During the first stage the embryo becomes active. Water is absorbed, which swells the seed and awaken the embryo. The plant’s metabolic rate increases and its cells begin to manufacture the substance that the plant will need to begin its growth process.
In the final stage of germination, the plant begins to actively grow and the root and stem emerge from the protective seed coat.
To start seeds in containers, fill each container completely with a starter mix and level with a straight board. Gently tamp the board until the mix is recessed 1/2 inch beneath the container rim. Water the mix gently until it is evenly moist. If water stands on top of the container, let it set for several minutes until the water is absorbed into the mix.
Growing mixes differ from seed-starting mixes and growing mixes that have a coarse texture will have a wide range of organic additives, and a concentration of nutrients. Some are formulations for specific crops, such as rhododendrons, for when plants are grown in containers for prolonged periods. Other mixes suit a wide range of seedlings until they are ready for transplanted to the garden.
How the seed is planted depends on the size of the seed. Small seeds, such as petunia and begonia, are blended with grade 4 vermiculite and sprinkled evenly over the soil surface. Water evenly and place container in a clear plastic bag with a few pin holes poked in it. Put in warm but not hot place.
For medium seeds, such as pansies, use the tip of a dibble stick or pencil to make small trenches down the length of the container. Be sure each trench is about twice as deep as the diameter of the seeds. Drop seeds into the trench at regular intervals and cover with plastic.
For larger seeds, such as marigolds, use a dibble stick to poke evenly spaced holes in rows along the length of the container. Plant individual seeds into holes that are one and a half to two times the seed diameter and cover with the soil mix.
When the seedlings begin to emerge from the soil, untie the plastic bag to allow a degree of air circulation. When several seed leaves have opened, remove the container from the bag and place it under a grow-light or on an east or south windowsill.
Even though this is more work than just buying plants, the rewards are greater because the availability of different varieties of plants increases. Also, planting seeds indoors is a good cure for winter boredoms.
Jim Coe lives in Lawton and writes a weekly garden column for The Lawton Constitution.
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