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During my visit to Paris, I had the pleasure of tasting the classic French madeleine, a small, spongy lemony cake known for its distinct shell shape.
Food historians believe that madeleines are named after Madeleine Paulmier, a young servant girl who offered her recipe in 1755 to Stanislas Leczinski, the king of Poland, after the main chef became angry and left the kitchen in the middle of a feast.
Once I came back to Saudi Arabia, I was surprised to find that one of Alkhobar’s bakeries, Deema’s Bakery, specialized in offering madeleines with a Saudi twist.
The bakery fuses bold Middle Eastern flavors with European desserts. Its madeleines come in seven flavors: lemon and cardamom, saffron, rahash (made with tahini), ginger honey, orange, coconut, and chocolate fudge.
Deema’s Bakery offers another variation to the original recipe for madeleines, adding cinnamon and chocolate to some of the cakes, giving them a color that is darker than the original light golden tone.
The bakery also has other offerings, such as brownies and chocolate fudge with peanut butter.
I was curious about all the flavors, so I picked the mixed box containing the bakery’s many madeleine varieties. The box is ideal for gatherings or as gifts.
Deema’s Bakery supplies over 20 coffee shops in the Eastern Province, and it also takes individual orders. For more details and information, visit the Instagram page @chef.deema.
TORONTO: Chinese-Canadian chef Kelvin Cheung’s culinary journey started at the age of 12, working at his father’s restaurant in Chicago. He’s come a long way since then, with stints in Toronto, Vancouver, Delhi, Mumbai, and now, Dubai.
During his time in India, Cheung was a favorite of several Bollywood celebrities, and he’s becoming something of a celeb himself, thanks to social-media. His latest venture — Jun’s — is already making waves in Dubai’s culinary scene with its “elevated North American-Asian dining experience.”
If you’re not exactly sure what means, think tempura za’atar chaat — a surprising mélange of za’atar, tempura, tamarind, yogurt, and chaat masala or a lamb koobideh, which includes the traditional koobideh fixings, plus nikiri and egg yolk sauce, with kimchi jam.
Cheung says Jun’s is rooted in his Chinese heritage, North American upbringing, and French culinary training. And he stresses that he tries to source the freshest ingredients from local farms.
Here, Cheung talks discipline, noodles, and learning to lead, and reveals his “perfect Sunday brunch recipe.”
Q. What is your top tip for amateur cooks?
A. Cooking is a difficult skill that you never truly master, but discipline is the key. Expect to be a lifelong student.
Q. What is one ingredient that can instantly improve any dish?
A. Salt. You need to add salt to enhance and taste the rest of the ingredients, as well as balance the dish — particularly, desserts. A lot of inexperienced chefs find it difficult to (get the right amount of salt). It takes experience, muscle memory, and confidence.
Q. What is your favorite cuisine to eat?
A. Japanese. Especially sushi.
Q. When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
A. Never critiquing, always observing… I love to hear the story of what inspired a dish or how it came about. Being let into the mind of a chef is always so interesting to me.
Q. What’s your favorite dish to cook?
A. I love making noodles. My wife and son are obsessed with noodles, and I make them a bowl from scratch. I take a whole chicken and some beef bones to make a super-rich, power-packed bone broth. It’s nutritionally-dense, hearty, and delicious. Cook the noodles, prepare garnishes and sauces, and serve my loved ones a steaming, hot bowl of delicious noodle soup. It fills my heart.
Q. If you have to cook something quickly, what’s your go-to dish?
A. Eggs. They’re a staple in our house. They’re healthy, convenient, accessible, affordable, and something that we all love.
Q. What’s the most difficult dish on your menu?
A. The Jun’s burger. It’s simple and no-frills, but it has to be precise every single time. We weigh out the exact patty-to-bun ratio. We use four cuts of wagyu beef, which are then hand-diced to make the patty. The execution must be perfect. We cook the patties until the edges are crispy, while making sure the burger remains juicy.
Q. Are you a strict boss?
A. My leadership style has changed dramatically over the years. I was trained in Chinese and French kitchens where there were great expectations and no room for errors. So it took me quite a while to train myself to be a less reactive leader. Becoming a father and reading about parenting styles was a big catalyst for deep change.
While I run a very tight ship in terms of organization and output, I believe in teaching and modeling, rather than barking orders. I’m very proud to say some of my team members have been with me for almost a decade now, moving cities and countries to continue on my team.
Chef Kelvin’s Pumpkin Congee
Serves: 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
1 kg fresh pumpkin — seeded, peeled, and diced
8 cups of water or vegetable stock
1 knob ginger, peeled and sliced
¾ cup jasmine sweet rice, rinsed well
Salt, white pepper, and light soy sauce for seasoning
1 cup pumpkin seeds, roasted
½ cup chili oil (for garnish)
½ cup scallions, chopped
¼ cup fresh coriander, chopped
INSTRUCTIONS:
In a pot, bring the water or vegetable stock to boil. Add the pumpkin and ginger; simmer until the pumpkin is tender.
Remove half of the pumpkin. Mash or purée, and set aside.
In the same pot, add the rice and simmer until fully cooked. Now stir in the pumpkin purée.
Season with salt, white pepper, and light soya sauce. Mix well.
Garnish with roasted pumpkin seeds, chili oil, scallions, and green coriander. Serve.
DUBAI: Dubai-based chef Dilip Kumara is heading to Paris this week for the eighth edition of the World Chocolate Masters, a contest known as the “World Cup” of chocolate.
The event, which starts on Oct. 29, brings together 18 world-class chocolatiers to push the limits of what is possible in design.
A post shared by Salon du Chocolat (@salonduchocolat)
Kumara, who is an assistant pastry chef at Five Hotels and Resorts, said in a released statement: “Qualifying for the world finals of the World Chocolate Masters is a dream come true for any pastry chef, and it is no different for me.”
“While it is a true honor to represent the Middle East in the finals, this is also an opportunity to meet and learn from the best talents in the world and bring back learnings from the experience to help elevate chocolate craft in the region,” added the Middle East finalist.
The contest is an initiative of French chocolate maker Cacao Barry to advance creative artisanship and put new talent on the map. The global competition provides a unique platform for artisan chocolatiers, patissiers and chefs from around the world to showcase their skills.
This year’s theme is symbolized by “TMRW,” where the chefs will be challenged to design the chocolate of tomorrow. The finalists will need to present a clear vision and delectable creations which address these shifts.
Chef Charles Azar, president of the Academie Nationale de Cuisine Lebanon-MEA and Gulf, will represent the Middle East as a jury member, joining some of the industry’s most respected talents.
“The World Chocolate Masters brings together the best pastry chefs from across the world under one roof to compete in a test of talent, focus and grit in creating the finest chocolate craft,” Azar said.
“Following a very exciting Middle East final, I am now delighted to be a jury member at the world finals and look forward to witnessing a new era in chocolate where boundaries are pushed and creativity triumphs in the pursuit of excellence,” he added.
While summer is officially over, one of Riyadh’s newest breakfast spots recreates those crisp vacation morning vibes complete with delicious dishes that will get you out of bed easily for just a taste.
Reminiscent of laid-back eateries straight from Bali, Brekkie All Day Brunch and Cafe carries a tropical feel with its bamboo ceiling, woven-back chairs, and accent greenery wall. The modest restaurant makes you feel as if you’re sitting down for an experience rather than a meal.
The joint offers a wide variety of plates, including Western and Eastern takes on various dishes. For an indulgent meal, they recommend the scrambled mess, a combination of avocado, sweet potatoes, and eggs, nuanced by hints of sweet paprika, or the farmer’s breakfast, a similar concept dish with fried eggs and hash browns, drizzled with date syrup.
The double-layered Brekkie tostada is a fine take on the traditional Mexican breakfast: A crunchy toasted tortilla topped with a sunny-side-up egg, mashed avocado, beans and sour cream, garnished with some fresh coriander. It’s the perfect selection for someone looking for a light but filling meal.
For those born with a morning sweet tooth, their caramelized banana or sticky toffee French toast are the perfect starters to your day, made with sweet and thick brioche bread. The two dishes are perfect for the autumn season, garnished with candied nuts and smooth maple syrup.
Their offerings also include a variety of Middle Eastern-style dishes, like roasted pepper moutabel and foul moudames mezzes as well as types of shakshuka dishes.
Their mid-range prices make it the perfect place to have a weekend brunch with a big group. Whether you need an ambient place to get some solo work done or gather a few friends for some quality time, Brekkie will not disappoint.
While their coffee offerings are not the best in town and the waiting period is quite long on weekends, Brekkie makes up for it with flavorful, exciting and fresh meals and a summer vacation ambience.
Their branch on Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq Road, currently the only one in Riyadh, welcomes diners from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.
For more information, visit their Instagram @brekkie.sa.
ZAMBOANGA CITY: As she tosses charred coconut powder into a bowl of marinated beef, Yolanda Adrias prepares a special dish that is not only a famous southwestern Philippine delicacy, but also a gateway to the cultural identity of one of the region’s largest Muslim ethnic groups.
The dish, tiyula itum, means black stew in the language of the Tausug people, who live primarily in the southwestern parts of the Mindanao island group — in Sulu and Zamboanga.
Though not a native member of the Tausug community, 28-year-old Adrias, a gourmet cook of Philippine cuisines, has mastered tiyula itum to perfection, gaining some fame in Zamboanga where she works.
“Our Tausug neighbors here would request me to cook it for them,” she told Arab News as she began to saute onion, garlic and lemongrass to intensify the flavor of the dish.
She then adds beef and brings it to a boil, mixing in chili to produce the spicy kick that many people love about the stew.
Left to simmer for a while until the meat becomes soft, the ingredients soon take on color from the charred coconut, turning black in the process.
Sometimes known as “royal beef stew” and historically linked to the dining rooms of the Sultanate of Sulu, which existed until the early 20th century, tiyula itum is nowadays served on special occasions such as weddings or religious festivals closely linked with Tausug traditions.
“It’s our identity,” Jainab Abdulmajid, who used to work as provincial tourism officer in Sulu, told Arab News. “If you want to know the Tausug culture, you have to embrace our delicacy.”
For the family of Gamaria Abubakar Bawasanta, a former civil servant in Sulu, tiyula itum is a staple dish during the fasting month.
“Most Tausug families serve that dish during Ramadan,” the 59-year-old said. “It’s part of our culture.”
To some, it is also the ultimate comfort food, and one that brings a sense of belonging.
Ismael Bantilano, a taxi driver in Zamboanga, would always make a stop at Kim-Rise, a restaurant famous for tiyula itum, to feel better whenever he is feeling low or under the weather.
“If someone from the family has a cough or cold, the soup is a good remedy,” he said, recounting how during his childhood, the stew would bring him relief during illness.
But Bantilano’s strongest memory of the distinct flavor of tiyula itum is related to his late mother, who would await his return from school to serve the dish.
“It’s my comfort food,” he said. “I can’t live without having it whenever I am craving.”
Rania Moualla, the founder of Saudi culinary academy ZaDK, is happiest in the kitchen.
At her home in Alkhobar, she loves to prepare meals for her family and guests.
She said the main ingredient of her creations was always love but she also sprinkled a few fun innovative twists into her favorite Middle Eastern dishes.
She has collected recipes that her Syrian mother prepared for her as a child and compiled an updated version of them for her “A Spoonful of Home” cookbook, with accurate measures and cooking times.
Her love of Saudi Arabia is evident in the book with dishes such as date rocca salad, maamoul, and tuna kabsa.
Moualla tries to minimize food waste, for example, saving scraps of bread to toast for fattet hummus, and freezing prepared meat to save time and reduce overall waste.
Her cookbook is a love letter in book form to her mother, who equipped her with her culinary skills.
Photographic illustrations for the book were taken by Moualla’s friend Bushra al-Hindi, and all the dishes were cooked, prepared, plated, and shot in Moualla’s kitchen, using her own tableware.
With categories such as appetizers, and salad as main dishes including seafood, chicken, and meat, there is also a section dedicated to desserts and jams, and another just offering cooking tips.
All proceeds from book sales go to ZaDK’s food for change initiative. Priced at SR250 ($66), “A Spoonful of Home” can be purchased from the ZaDK website.