Sir George Grey did not live up to his name. A colourful character, as Governor of New Zealand back in the early days, he certainly made his mark, not always positively. Kawau Island is a good example of this.
One of the biggest of the Hauraki Gulf islands, it lies about 30 minutes by sea from Sandspit, near Warkworth. In 1862 Grey chose it as a retreat from his often tumultuous career, appreciating its almost unspoilt beauty – which he then proceeded to mould to his personal ideal of a paradise.
Because, while Kawau has copious natural delights, what sets the island apart from others in the Gulf is mainly what remains of Grey’s residence there. Most notable, before you even set foot ashore, is the ornate and carefully restored Victorian Mansion House at the jetty, which he developed from the original, more modest dwelling.
Two-storeyed, with a wide balcony and porch, it’s grand, impressive and full of interest. Kauri-panelled rooms contain artworks, antiques and much history, as well as a welcoming café. It sits in a lovely garden where wandering peacocks add an exotic note, and are the most obvious of Grey’s other ‘enhancements’ to the island.
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A keen naturalist, he took delight in introducing four species of wallaby to Kawau, plus kangaroos, antelopes, kookaburras, emus, gnu and even zebras, as well as exotic plants. It’s bizarre to imagine these creatures wandering through the extensive native bush.
Happily, you need to imagine, since most of them have now been eliminated apart from, famously, the wallabies, plus some kookaburras. On a wander around the almost road-free island’s trails, you may hear or spot some.
You’ll also come across the unexpected but picturesque remains of a copper mine pump house as you work around the island’s many beautiful bays.
A lively community of around 100 people lives here permanently, their numbers boosted by many bach owners and boaties.
Don’t expect to see hordes of wallabies – the Pohutukawa Trust has been working hard to eradicate these destructive pests, reducing their numbers from about 5000 to a few hundred. There is a range of accommodation available on the island; and the fishing is good.
Back on the mainland, Brick Bay Wines and Sculpture Trail is nearby and well worth a visit for both of its attractions. Matakana is always a pleasure, for food, art and shopping; and Morris & James’ colourful pottery is not far from there.
Or head out to the predator-proof fenced Tāwharanui Regional Park, famous for its flourishing kiwi population.
Kawau Cruises’ return shuttle fare from Sandspit is $71 adult, $42 child (5-15 years). Their Royal Mail Run cruises daily around the island, for $107 adult, $54 child. They also offer a water taxi service. Auckland Seaplanes operate a flight from the city’s Viaduct, starting from $325 per person.
Choose a calm, sunny day for your exploration of the island, whether on foot or on the lovely Royal Mail Run Cruise.
See: kawauisland.org.nz
Staying safe: New Zealand is currently under Covid-19 restrictions. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.
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