Just a 10-minute stroll from Rotorua’s touristy bustle, the village of Ōhinemutu is a peaceful taster of real life that still feels distinctly last century.
That doesn’t mean it’s quiet here, though – there is a constant hiss and bubble beneath your feet that reminds you, if your nose hasn’t already, that you’re very much in a thermal hotspot.
Geysers have made the news by sporadically erupting nearby from the surface of the lake, and the constant supply of steaming hot water is made good use of for heating, cooking and bathing by the residents here, who are members of the Ngāti Whakaue sub-tribe.
Because, while Rotorua’s Māori heritage is famous, and naturally a major focus for any visitor, it’s good to see its more everyday side too. On a wander around the village, you can see how the thermal waters are put to practical use, and admire the carvings on the outside of the meeting house, Tama-te-kapua.
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Across from here, past the statue of Queen Victoria and right beside the lake, is the equally striking Anglican church, St Faith’s. Small but distinctive, and over a century old, it’s richly decorated inside with a dazzling abundance of tekoteko panels.
There are stained-glass windows too, but most famous is the clear glass window in the Galilee Chapel, etched with the image of Christ wearing a korowai, and appearing to walk on the surface of the lake beyond.
The graves outside, which include those of members of the Māori Battalion, are raised above ground because of the thermal activity.
This is a living village, not a tourist attraction, so be respectful.
Head back to the lakefront jetty and follow the inviting boardwalk. You’ll get lovely views of the lake and Mokoia Island, and pass a floating man-made one that spells out ‘Rotorua’.
There are lots of ducks, geese, gulls and swans along the way, some bush to walk through and then the smelly but striking Sulphur Bay to admire, with its steaming white water and crusty flats.
Strange, alien but fascinating, this is where people first tried bathing in mud pools. The Polynesian Spa is near here, if you prefer your thermal experience more cultivated.
Then you can return towards your starting point through the manicured Government Gardens, dominated by the currently closed but still architecturally stunning Rotorua Museum and nearby Tea House. Look out for the striking, big bronze Waitūkei sculpture here, which melds both Māori and European cultures.
Pass the pretty band rotunda, and exit through the impressive gateway, heading back into town for a well-deserved reward at one of the many cafés, bars and restaurants.
No cost to wander around the village. Currently the church is closed to visitors during the week except by prior arrangement, when the fee will be $5 per person.
To attend Holy Communion at St Faith’s, conducted in both Māori and English, go on a Sunday at 9am.
See: rotoruanz.com; stfaithsrotorua.co.nz
Staying safe: New Zealand is currently under Covid-19 restrictions. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.
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