Titanomagnetite is a long name for something very small. As small as a grain of sand, in fact – literally. The black sands along the North Island’s west coast beaches are finely-ground particles of rock that was ejected from Taranaki eruptions and washed along the coast. They are all magnetic ironsand, but if you head to Waiuku to experience it, you’ll get a lot of extras.
This small but lively town located at the southernmost branch of the Manukau Harbour has a long history. It was a port used first by Māori, who dragged their waka for more than a kilometre overland between the Awaroa River and the harbour.
From 1843 Waiuku became a trading post for Europeans moving to Auckland goods brought by road from the Waikato farmlands. Things got lively here during the land wars, then it went quiet until a steel mill was built at Glenbrook, using ironsand from the Waikato Heads.
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Because you can make much cuter things than steel. At the end of an impressively scenic eight-kilometre drive from Waiuku, you wind down through huge grassy dunes onto the black sands of long, open and surf-fringed Karioitahi Beach.
Tall, weather-sculpted cliffs rise above the beach, which is well-used by dog-walkers, horse-riders, dirt-bikers, blow-carters, paragliders – and magnet artists. A handful of fine sand can be coaxed, using a magnet, into a wide variety of shapes, abstract or recognisably real.
It’s fun, absorbing and immensely satisfying to create something soft, furry and three-dimensional out of that stuff you’re just standing on. Pouring, poking, stroking and tapping, you can combine different magnets to make a flower, a caterpillar, a bird or animal, or something altogether more fantastic.
All of them are irresistibly photogenic, especially with the backdrop of the beach, the sea or the cliffs, and they sparkle in changes of light. It’s especially pleasing to have made something imaginative and arty in such elemental surroundings.
Take along a variety of magnets, to make different shapes with the sand, but watch out for their propensity to zap together, thus destroying your artwork. Be sure to wear shoes – black sand can get punishingly hot on a sunny day.
Head into the little town of Waiuku itself, and get some refreshment at the historic and welcoming Kentish Hotel – built in 1851 and proud holder of the longest continuous liquor licence in the country. Take a stroll through the Tamakae Reserve, enjoying the museum and heritage buildings, the waterside park, and the stories about brothers Tamakae and Tamakou.
At nearby Glenbrook, there’s the Vintage Railway with its steam engines, and also the Glenbrook Model Railway. Drive along the peninsula to the Āwhitu Regional Park for lovely walks and beaches, or climb the Manukau Heads lighthouse at the harbour mouth.
Just imagination to create your ephemeral artwork.
Choose a calm day when the sand will be dry – and if you’re there for sunset, that’s a huge bonus.
See: waiukutown.co.nz
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